Open Road Journal: Sognefjord and the Flam Railway

Leaving Bergen

Worried about global warming

We booked a scenic tour package to travel from Bergen to Oslo (about $225 apiece), traveling first on a (relatively) fast passenger ferry north along the coast in an inner passage until we reach Sognefjorden, the longest and largest fjord network in Norway. Ferry service ended at Flam, where we were to take the scenic Flam railway to Myrdal, and then at Myrdal we could catch the Bergen railway for the trip to Oslo. This is a popular tour, but most people take it in the opposite direction -- Oslo to Bergen -- so there was only a single time schedule we could use.

We grabbed a hearty breakfast, bundled up in lots of layers, and walked over to the ferry docks to catch the 8 AM ferry. The rear upper deck was crowded as we idled out of Bergen harbor, but the wind turned into a savage knife as the captain brought the ferry up to full speed and most of the crowd disappeared indoors to avoid the cold. I fired up a cigar and enjoyed the brilliant weather in the company of a tough Norwegian guy and a frozen, camera-happy Asian fellow.

Looking north about to enter Sognefjord

Salmon pens

It took about 90 minutes to reach the mouth of the fjord and head inland. The coast line was rocky and windswept, but there were snug little house scattered across most all of the larger islands in the archipelago. From time to time we passed the circular nets denoting salmon farms, and did pass an oil refinery, no doubt processing feedstocks recovered from wells in the North sea.

Car ferry in Sognefjorden

Man, it was cold out on that deck

Balestrand and Kviknes Hotel

The mountains along the sides of the fjord rose up fairly quickly and the channel continued to narrow, but the best scenery started as we neared Balestrand. Balestrand itself was extremely picturesque, and I imagined it would be a fabulous place stay if you wanted to hike and explore the countryside.

Lots of waterfalls

Looking SW down the Naeroyfjorden

The weather stayed clear until we were clear to Aurland, the last stop before we reached Flam, but then a little rain cloud closed in and chased all the way to the end. Fortunately, the rain never actually reached Flam. We had a 3 hour layover while we waited for the scenic train. At first we were a little frustrated when two other trains left Flam on the way to Myrdal, but later we appreciated that they made us wait at Flam because the Oslo train only passed through Myrdal in the early evening, and the Myrdal station barely deserves being called a station. There's more to do at the Flam station and the weather is certainly much more pleasant.

Chased by rain from Aurland to Flam

Rjoandefossen waterfall

Flam proved to be a nice place for a picnic lunch, but we didn't do much else but sit and soak up sun while we waited for the train. The Flam railway is widely known as one of the more scenic and steepest railways in the world. It climbs almost 900 meters over the 20 km run to Myrdal, and runs past a number of spectacular waterfalls, the tallest of which includes a 450 foot free drop. There's only one section of double track, which is just wide enough for the downhill train to pass while the uphill train waits. Near the top you can see part of the original railway construction road, popular with bikers and cyclists alike for the 21 tightly packed switchbacks. Damn, that would have been a fun ride!

Rjoandefossen waterfall (again)

Up the Flam valley

Just before reaching the top of the line the trains stops for a 5 minute observation break at an enormous waterfall (Kjossfossen) that drains a large lake about 300 feet up over the ridge. As is typical with scenic rides, the railway operators provide some commentary on the railway, its history and landscape features all along the ride. Just before reaching the waterfall the commentary discusses sirens of the forest who sing to travelers and lure them off into the wilderness never to be heard from again. So of course, about the time all passengers have gotten out some rather mysterious lilting music starts playing from off on a hillside somewhere and a couple of frolicking up near the waterfall, appearing and then quickly disappearing amongst the boulders. (What a job! Gi and I speculated that they have a little cabana up among the rocks where they can knock back a snort or two of aquavit between performances. It's damn cold up there with all the mist from the waterfall, and they've got to get up and dance twice every hour.) No matter -- it's an awe-inspiring place, and I'd love to go back, but next time it'll be on a motorcycle.

Retirement would be grand except for those damned trains

Glad for double tracks!

As previously noted, the Myrdal station is barely a blip on the Bergen line that mainly exists to serve traffic from the Flam railway. However, the station is perched up in cirque about 880 meters above sea level, and most of the basin was still covered in snow this first week of June. A few birds flitted across the south-facing slopes where some early grasses sprouted out from under barren trees, but otherwise the are was completely silent save the wind shushing through the branches

21 switchbacks and NO motorcycle!!!

Kjosfossen

The train from Bergen arrived a bit after 5 PM and whisked us all off for the 5-hour ride to Oslo. For the first couple of hours we passed through a bleak but mesmerizing landscape, climbing another 400 meters up onto the Hardangervidda, a large mountain plateau that's home to Hardangervidda National Park and one of Norway's largest glaciers. Small huts and the occasional mountain lodge (fjellstove) were scattered here and there along the route, but there was little movement or activity until we reached Finse, There were still a few cross-country enthusiasts to be seen about there, but it was clear that the snow quality was waning rapidly and skis were soon to be hung up in favor of mountain bikes.

Kjosfossen + Water Nymph

Myrdal station

Past Finse, we slipped down the mountains and snow gradually gave way to pasture which gradually gave way to farmed fields. The rhythm of the rails made it difficult to stay awake, and both of us nodded off with only the occasional station call to wake us up. Finally, the train pulled into Oslo Central Station a bit after sunset (11 PM), and the first thing we saw as we stepped out of the train onto the platform was a tall building blazing away to the north of the station, somewhere behind the bus station. Eventually, the two us bumbled out into the plaza in front of the station before finding the after hours entrance to the Scandic hotel right next door. The room was small and a bit more spartan than we had enjoyed the past few days, but bed was a welcome sight after a very long and memorable day.